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Wednesday, Jun. 11, 2008 3:53 AM

If you live in the San Francisco Bay Area, I can't say enough good things about Angeline's Louisiana Kitchen on Shattuck in Berkeley. A couple of friends introduced me to the place, located between Kittredge and Bancroft, and it's simply fabulous.

There's usually a line out the door - it's not a large venue - but owner Robert Volberg is a host of the old fashioned school, greeting guests and circulating among the tables to see that everything is to their liking. And there's a wonerfully unhurried feel to the place.

The hush puppies are crisp and golden, not the usual doughy balls of paste I've experienced elsewhere. And even if you hate vegetables, the brussel sprouts are incredible, sauteed perfectly in butter and garlic. I've favored the mixed grill on my past couple of visits, which includes an excellent Louisiana hot link, baby back ribs that are smoked until they're literally fall-off-the-bone tender, and BBQ shrimp over rice.

And you can't go wrong with pecan pie or beignets for dessert. We're talking real pecan pie, not the variations that crop up with caramel or chocolate chips.

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